Deck hardware replacement

[Killick Greenie]

During the winter refit I would like to upgrade the deck hardware to spinlock cleats and clutches. Has anyone carried out this mod and would you advise moving all the cleats to the aft or to simply replace them in their original positions? We had some drama with the current camlocks for the genoa sheets refusing to unlock, you can imagine the follow on sequence of events!

I shall post some pictures of progress.

Dave

[Ru88ell]

Bob says that he's never sold a new CC19 without the Spinlock upgrade - so I'm quite unsure as to why they aren't standard. Zephyr had the full set, and they were all led to the aft edge of the cabin. I would certainly have them again. Plenty of pics in my blog.

I have a double Spinlock XAS clutch for sale if you need one. I replaced it with a triple on Zephyr to cope with the topping lift.

[Killick Greenie]

Bob says that he's never sold a new CC19 without the Spinlock upgrade - so I'm quite unsure as to why they aren't standard. Zephyr had the full set, and they were all led to the aft edge of the cabin. I would certainly have them again. Plenty of pics in my blog.

I have a double Spinlock XAS clutch for sale if you need one. I replaced it with a triple on Zephyr to cope with the topping lift.

My boat is a South African model so I'm assuming this was the original design. Would I need to mount plates under the deck as supports if I move them all aft?

PM when you get a chance Russell re the clutch.

Hope the new boat is ok. It looks fantastic.

[zimp]

Hello Dave,

I had the intention to change the SA cleats and clutches to newer designs. This because the SA cleats (I think there Ronstan design) are sometimes difficult to unlock and the SA clutches (they are Spinlock SUA series) don't lock the halyards properly.
I first changed the cleats of the stay-sail with Spinlock PXR (same footprint as the original cleats).
But the PXRs are also hard to unlock under high tension. So I am not going to change the cleats for the genoa/yankee. The problem of unlocking the genoa/yankee sheets is not that important because the cleats are easier to reach. See picture in the album of Zimp mods of my present layout.

For the clutches I’m searching for clutches with the same footprint as the Spinlock SUA clutches.

I want to stay with the foot print because I do not want to drill new holes in the deck.
Installing new hardware (or move existing hardware) on a wood-core deck asks for proper installation to prevent water ingress and/or damage to the core.
See the following links.

http://morrison-marine.com/service-repair/hardware-installation/hardware-instalation-on-cored-decks/

http://www.boatus.com/magazine/2013/April/rebed-deck-fittings-correctly.asp


Bert

Zimp, CC19 #004

[Killick Greenie]

Bert, this is very helpful information and especially the links. It's interesting to hear that the Spinlocks also become difficult to uncleat, I wonder if the angle at which the sheets enter the cleats are causing the problem.
Thanks
Dave

[SimonW]

Those are useful links as I need to add some deck based fittings.

I have no idea how Bob does this? I think where the winches are there is a bonded in plate. The other Honnor marine supplied fittings use a stainless steel plate on the inside which spreads the load. I suspect that they are simply drilled, sikaflexed and the spreader plate used. If the stress is primarily vertical that should work well enough. I can understand the process where a winch is involved as there is a great deal of side to side stress. Most winch mountings will have a stiffener piece within the moulding to take the stress.

The one article that uses a nail I would say needs more core taken out to take any real stress as the filler is negligible where it touches the glass, but the principle looks sound.

[zimp]

It's interesting to hear that the Spinlocks also become difficult to uncleat, I wonder if the angle at which the sheets enter the cleats are causing the problem.

Dave

The Spinlock PXRs are working fine under low and medium loads, then it's just a click and a clack. You move the top of house and the cam follows.
But under higher loads, say sailing with >5bft, the cam does not follow the housing any more and than you have to help the cam by hand. so no click-clack anymore. May the spring that couples the housing and the cam is not stiff enough or they are overloaded, the PXR0810 has a max load of 200kg (440lbs).

Bert

[Killick Greenie]

I guess there must be considerable force from the Genoa. The problem I had with the existing fittings was that the sheet jammed between the end of the cam and the bullseye so hopefully these new fitting will help.
Thanks
Dave

[Killick Greenie]

Mission accomplished and here are the photo's with commentary:

Tools used:
Philips screwdriver to release the cam cleat from its base
Flat blade screwdriver and alan key to remove original fitting
Silicone sealant
Methylated spirits to remove old mastic
Dremel 4000 to remove edge from existing plate. This step probably wasn't necessary but seemed like a good idea at the time

Original fitting


These brass ferrules go through the deck and are removed with the alan key


Fitting removed, just need to clean everything up with the meths


Pre Dremel


I have hit the image limit so will continue in next post

[Killick Greenie]

Apre Dremel


Base of new cam in place


And the finished article


This will be the tender to our boat, you can sail it, row it, scull or motor. Its a Fyne Boats Eastport Pram dinghy