Ventilation

[Dennis]

Many owners have expressed interest in ways of improving the ventialation in our CC19s.

Jörgen Wallebäck has come up with a novel solution. Check out his gallery "Building TIMBRE" and be prepared to be impressed.

I wonder who will be the first to utilise this modification on a GRP built CC19?

[Greybeard]

Now that is inspired Well done, Jörgen

Steve

[Timbre 19]

Plan about Ventilation - TIMBRE.jpg

Thanks Dennis and Steve for your appreciation.
I enclose here how I imagined the whole ventilation
following "the cold wall principle" (according
to a google-translation from swedish).

Jörgen
#TIMBRE

[erbster]

Just looked at the album. What a beautiful build! I'm jealous of the heater. What a novel idea! Looks like a neat solution. What is the "cold wall principle?". I tried googling it, but I could only find references to keeping fridges cold.

[Timbre 19]

Hello,
as I mentioned "the Cold Wall Principle" is a (maybe bad) google-translation from swedish. But here comes an explanation, also that translated from swedish by Google!

Cold wall principle.
One way to achieve well-ventilated, dry and pleasant climate in the boat is to allow the incoming air to pass a "dehumidifying chamber" as follows:
The Cabin should be as dense as possible, with the exception of a few low-placed openings for air intake and two or three larger valves, type Electrolux, on the cabin top for outgoing air.
The air is preferably in through the ventilation hoses in the cockpit rim compartments. The hoses are led down below the waterline to spaces below the berths. Where the air hits the cold, bare hull and moistened by. The condensate is collected in the bilge and the dehumidified air is sucked into the cabin through the warmer air which rises and exits through the vents on the cabin roof.
It is usually called "cold wall principle 'has beneficial effect on the boat's interior climate in two different ways at different weather situations. "Cold wall" is part of the underwater hull, which has poor thermal insulation and therefore a temperature close to the surrounding water temperature.
In the first situation, preferably in the beginning of the season, pushing warm, moist air from the shore out to the boat close to land and in cold water. The moisture-laden air enters the ventilation system beginning where it hits the "cold wall" that has been cooled by the cold water. If the humid air has a dew temperature higher than the wall temperature condensing a portion of the air moisture to water on the wall.
The air thus has lost part of its moisture before it enters the cabin and it is favorable. One minor drawback is that condensation runs from the cold wall, inside of the hull, the bilge.
In the second situation the air temperature is low, for example a cold late summer night, but the water temperature is high. The cold air enters the ventilation system beginning where it hits the so-called "cold wall", but in this situation, the wall is heated the water to a temperature higher than the ambient air.
Air temperature is raised when the "hot wall" before entering into the rough and it is favorable. The ventilation system should start the air does not pass anything moist, such as wet ropes or wet bilges, because in that case humidified ventilation air, which is unfavorable.

Regards from Jörgen

[erbster]

Thanks for the explanation. It's a clever idea; the problem in my grp CC is that the whole hull is un-insulated and I get enormous amounts of condensation when it's cold outside- a lot of wiping down is needed each morning and careful airing of kit. I imagine it might be better with a wooden hull. Keep us posted how you get on- I hope we you can bring your boat to one of our gatherings so we can see her!